The leather-wrapped steering wheel, power driver's seat and illuminated entry system all move to the optional equipment list this year.įord's entry into the personal coupe class has evolved into quite a substantial car. Gone from the lineup is a power passenger seat, remote fuel door release and "hands-free" cellular phone. The base V6 engine benefits from 100,000-mile platinum-tipped spark plugs and other improvments that make it more quiet and durable. Five new colors complement the new styling. A total anti-theft system is newly optional, as are chrome wheels. Other changes to the T-Bird include color-keyed body cladding and door handles, new seat fabrics, new 15-inch alloy wheels, and a new cruise control system that increases or decreases speed in one mph increments. The Super Coupe has been canceled for 1996, but its spirit lives on in a Sport package that includes SC-style 16-inch wheels, a specially tuned suspension and grippy P225/60 R16 tires. Excessive weight has been overcome by the addition to the options list of Ford's excellent modular 4.6-liter V8. Inside, the Thunderbird is a work of art, with a flowing dash that sweeps gracefully between the front seats and houses dual airbags. A new hood, front and rear fascias, and new headlights have cleaned up the exterior nicely.
Restyled for 1996, the Thunderbird is markedly improved over the 1995 model. This year, the T-Bird still sports those classic BMW lines, but everything else about the car has been revised or revamped since the car bowed in 1989. For the first time in the Thunderbird's history, a V8 was not available. It was too heavy, and early models suffered reliability problems.
THUNDERBIRD 96 CODE
I’m just stumped with this damn thing, I can’t keep buying things that don’t work, most shops even told me if it doesn’t throw a code their computers won’t be able to tell them whats wrong.In 1989, the umpteenth generation of the Thunderbird was introduced sporting BMW 6-Series styling, an available supercharged V6 engine, and an interior whose switchgear resembled the control panel of a 1976 Whirlpool dishwasher. Any RPM above 1500 is smooth, and doesn’t surge. Also, I’m not sure, but I doubt the Crank Sensor going bad would effect idle. But, I was careful with it, used a puller installer, and there is appropriate distance between the sensor and gear. I’m thinking too maybe I damaged the Crank Position Sensor when I installed the balancer, since it was a one piece unit with the pick-up gear. So how the IAC went bad right after changing everything and a new harmonic balancer is way beyond me. The IAC is in question, but the car was working perfectly fine for at least a year with no problems whatsoever. I’ve run down every single line and there’s nothing leaking or rotten. And the only code it throws is barking at me for doing so. The icing on the cake is that it has not thrown a single code except for when I unplug the IAC. I don’t drive the car now, it stalled out a few times in traffic on the way back before I swapped everything back out. Frustrated I changed out the coil pack and wires. So I figured it was the EGR, or solenoid, so I changed them both out. Leaving work that day I noticed if I pull the IAC connector, the idle smooths out some, but it doesn’t stall. So I pulled the new plugs, reverted them back to the old ones. I started with the just unpluging the battery for 3 hours. Since this car is my daily driver, I had it at work while I started to undo the new stuff I put on it. It would lope, lope then almost try to stall, especially when the fans kicked on or I put it into gear. Ran fine! No shake! But then I had gotten a new problem. So over the weekend I swapped out the balancer, and buttoned everything up. It never threw a code once, so I had nothing to go by to begin with. I’ve never had one go bad, so I didn’t even think of that as a possibility with the way the car felt. It ended up being the harmonic balancer, it spun a 180, not a surprise on an 18 year old car.
I thought it was a bad misfire, so I changed the plugs, then the wires, then the EGR and EGR solenoid and swapped a coilpack from my other car. By the end of the week, it was so bad I kept the car off the road. It would shake harder and faster with increased RPM’s. That same day it felt like the car was missing, and throughout the week it got worse and worse. I don’t know if it’s related, but I ran over some debris on the highway at around 70mph. It started with a little shake when I gave the car gas. Hi, I’ve got a problem with my '96 Tbird that’s really stumping me.
0 kommentar(er)
